Portugal with Viking River Cruises
The Belem Tower in Lisbon
Lisbon harbor on the horizon
Once we “got the word,” we gladly signed up for another Viking River Cruise with a group of repeat cruisers from my college graduating class. We had previously joined this group for our first such cruise in Southern France (see my blog on that trip), and the experience was truly first-class. In fact, it was so successful the group agreed to shoot for a different cruise every two years or so. This time the destination was Portugal with an emphasis on the Douro River (Portugal’s River of Gold) – one of the major wine producing areas in Portugal.
The Douro actually originates in Spain and runs west through Portugal to its mouth at the Atlantic Ocean. Our trip was to begin in Lima, the capital and major city, and then move to Porto where we would board our ship and sail the Douro River. Because of the river’s elevation changes, there would be a number of locks to negotiate east and west. In addition to spending some time exploring the cities of Lima and Porto, we were going to see some beautiful wine country and the valley of the Douro River.
Trip Planning
Arrival in Valencia via Iberia Airlines
My wife and I have learned the value of adding a few days upfront to our overseas travel, especially when going eastward. Not only does it help with jet lag adjustment, but it also is a good excuse to see another part of that region. And importantly, it provides a cushion for the unexpected delays that always seem to happen on a big trip.
So, for this trip we decided to set up a visit to our nephew and his wife and family who were living in Valencia, Spain. Valencia is southwest of Barcelona on the coast of Spain and a short flight from Madrid. We found our best flight routing was into Madrid, and then on to Valencia. For the return trip, our flight routing was back through Madrid, so I planned two extra nights there for us to explore some of that great city.
I mentioned unexpected delays above. Although our entire flight had been booked with American Airlines, our complete itinerary included some of their partner airlines. We were scheduled to arrive in Madrid at 9:30 am local time and depart for Valencia at 12:15 pm on Iberia Airlines. Seemed very doable with time to spare. But the Madrid airport is HUGE, and there was no shuttle, rail, or people mover to get us from one gate to the other. No problem, our bags were checked through, our carry-ons had wheels, and we actually looked forward to stretching our legs after the long flight. However, it was still a very long haul to get to our next gate.
Portugal and Spain maps showing our major stops
Oh, and there was Customs and Immigration to clear as well. As we approached the Customs area, we saw hundreds of people in two long lines going nowhere, one for EU countries and one for everyone else. We waited in line for 20 minutes or so before panic started to set in. People in line were checking their watches, yelling out for officials to do something, and in general were getting very frustrated. There were only a handful of agents dealing with these long lines. It didn’t look good for making our connecting flight.
We don’t know exactly what happened, but after about 45 minutes the lines started to move better. I think it was a simple matter of calling out some more agents to check passports, etc. We still had a way to walk, but ultimately we got to our gate in time. (Keep in mind that most of what was happening around us was spoken in Spanish. It just added to the confusion and uncertainty of a stressful situation.)
Arrival in Valencia
Our family “guides” in Valencia
Once aboard our plane we had a short flight to Valencia. Our nephew was kind enough to drive out and meet us at the airport which made the final leg of the trip easy and enjoyable. We drove to their home in Valencia which they had been renting for about a year. With two young children it was a very happy and active place. We got to visit with everyone for awhile, and then were shown to our room which was completely separate from the rest of the house, making it a very quiet spot to relax and catch up on some sleep.
During our time in Valencia we were especially lucky to have American “local guides” to show us the area. My nephew and his wife were gracious hosts and took us to a number of fascinating local spots. We discovered that Valencia is a very “walkable” city with many outdoor cafes and restaurants to enjoy. Our first dinner out allowed us to enjoy a delicious meal outdoors while musicians in the plaza entertained us. The pace was slow and easy and gave us a chance to catch up with family in a very low-key atmosphere. A lot of credit goes to their babysitter, who gave the parents a chance to slow down and have some fun.
On to Lima
Rooftop bar and restaurant at our hotel
After several very relaxing and enjoyable days with our family we began the next phase of our trip. We took a short flight from Valencia to Lisbon and were able to call an Uber to our hotel, the Tivoli Avenida Liberdade Lisboa. This was the hotel selected by Viking to begin the trip, and we decided to arrive one day early. If you’ve read any of my other blogs, you may see a pattern here. Past experience has shown me the wisdom of having a bit of a “cushion” with a trip itinerary. I like knowing that small delays won’t affect anything, and I also like to get a jump-start on seeing the city where the trip begins. We’ve attended a few Welcome Receptions where we were the only couple that didn’t seem jet-lagged or late from an airport transfer.
When we arrived in Lisbon we were going on our third full day in Europe, and we were feeling pretty rested and acclimated to the local time zone. We were able to get some “tourist directions” at the hotel for some interesting walking tours and good local restaurants. Of course, we brought with us a copy of Rick Steves’guide on Portugal – his books are always our go-to resource for travel to Europe. We quickly discovered that cod (the white fish) is a hugely popular dish in Portugal. You can find it in every restaurant. One waiter told us they have 365 ways to prepare cod. I like it, but not that much. Anyway, the food was very good, and the selection was broad. Plus, we found Lisbon very reasonably priced for a larger city.
Once we joined our college group we were on a structured tour. Viking planned two nights in Lima, with us leaving the third day for Porto and our cruise ship. Our tours gave us a good overview of the city. It was interesting to hear about the immense impact shipping and trade had on Lisbon’s growth throughout history. We toured amazing architecture, the Belem Tower, Lisbon’s Old Town - the Alfama District, and the National Tile Museum. We signed up for “A Taste of Lisbon” which gave us a wonderful sampling of Lisbon’s pastry, cheeses, sausages, sandwiches, wines, and coffees.
On Day 3 we bused to Porto, stopping for lunch enroute. During our meal we were serenaded by a fabulous string trio with traditional Portuguese music. We traveled further until stopping at Coimbra University, Portugal’s oldest university and one of the world’s oldest continuously operated universities. Parts of the university are actually important museums containing rare books and artifacts.
We were finally at the city of Porto, a city intimately tied to the famous Portuguese port wine. Port has been a major export item for many years, and much of it gets aged in barrels in the city of Porto. The Douro River splits the city, and you can see wine operations of all kinds on both sides of the river. Porto also meant it was time to board our ship, the Viking Torgil. This trip we opted for a Veranda Stateroom A on the third deck - the same level as the lounge and a level up from the dining room. Viking gives a full explanation of the stateroom options on its website, so I won’t detail that here. However, I feel that the longboats really offer two basic choices: a regular stateroom or a suite. The letter designations refer to deck levels. In my opinion, the balconies aren’t worth the extra cost, nor am I overly concerned about which deck I’m on. The suites offer more room, a separate sitting area, and some additional perks that might make it worthwhile for a special vacation. Again, check Viking’s website for the particulars.
(I spent time describing a Viking longboat in my blog on Southern France, so I won’t repeat that here. If you have an interest, see “Our First Viking River Cruise.”)
The Douro River runs through the city of Porto
Porto
Wine tasting, historic buildings, cosmopolitan restaurants, sidewalk cafes, boat taxis, and St. Francis Church are some of the major activities in Porto. Although port is not my personal favorite type of wine, I did find the many port-related activities and tours extremely interesting. And of course, Portugal and the Douro Valley produce many other kinds of wine (which are my favorites,) so the emphasis on port was easy to tolerate. I should add that our hosts, Viking Cruises, had ample supplies of all kinds of Portuguese wines on hand to keep every customer happy.
The Douro Valley
Aside from the wine we expected to see, there were olive and almond orchards lining many of the neatly terraced hills on our way upriver on the Douro. And plenty of scenic vineyards with tasting rooms and small towns scattered throughout the valley. One notable stop we made was to Regua, the headquarters of the Port Wine Institute.
The Douro Valley
A bottle of Mateus Rose
If you’re a senior, I probably don’t need to ask if you’re familiar with Mateus Wine. Remember that Rose wine we bought as young adults that came in the odd shape bottle? And when we were done with the wine, we used the bottle for a candle holder. Well the picture on the Mateus bottle was the Mateus Palace in Vila Real, Portugal – and it is a fascinating visit. The Palace itself is very impressive, but it also is surrounded by amazing formal gardens. I found it a fun, interesting, and yet very relaxing visit.
Among all the activities related to wine, we also stopped in a traditional baker’s shop in Pinhao. We watched a woman making bread in a small kitchen, and we were captivated by the whole event. Looking at the simple fireplace and kitchen, you had the feeling that you were watching bread making exactly as it occurred hundreds of years ago.
Baking bread in Pinhao
Inside the Salamanca Cathedral
A cool ride with Viking
We did get a chance to see a famous part of Spain during our cruise up the Douro. Salamanca, Spain is a UNESCO World Heritage Site which predates the Roman Empire. It is a tremendously impressive city containing many historic buildings and shops. The massive cathedral dominates the city and is definitely a must-see stop, if you go to Salamanca. The only drawback for me was the longish bus ride to get there from the ship. However, Viking does a good job planning stops along the way, and the buses are very comfortable.
A Roman aquaduct in Salamanca
An indulgent snack in Salamanca
Onboard the Viking Torgil
Each night onboard brought excellent food and drink. Unless you had an excursion that included dinner in town, all our dinners were onboard. The selections were varied and satisfying, and I never heard anyone complain about the food or service. Most nights there featured music or a lecture after dinner, and always there was something mellow happening in the lounge. A piano player, some local dancers, or an explanation of the next day’s destination. I never felt over-programmed or rushed. Some people opted out of various excursions, but in general our friends and colleagues enjoyed the activities offered as well as the pace.
An evening in the lounge
Starting the Trip Home
The Viking Torgil - our home in Portugal
Our return trip down the Douro returned us to Porto, and our good-byes and final travel arrangements began. As I mentioned above, we were flying from Porto to Madrid where we were staying for two nights. I used our Marriott points to book the Hotel Palacio Del Retiro, one of Marriott’s Autograph Collection hotels. We took a taxi to the small Porto airport and caught our flight to Madrid. I should mention that Viking offers free transfers for those who use their air ticketing service.
We left the Madrid airport and discovered a very convenient shuttle bus going downtown. From the map it seemed to be close to our hotel, and in fact it was. A quick and inexpensive ride got us within a block or two of our hotel.
The Palacio Del Retiro looked good on the Marriott website, and it was. The hotel was a beautifully maintained older building with a spiral staircase (and an elevator,) marble floors, and lots of wooden panels. Our room was roomy and very quiet. The hotel didn’t have that many rooms, so the service seemed very intimate. Breakfast was served in a charming room off the lobby which resembled a private library. There was an ala carte menu and a breakfast buffet of fruit, cereals, and pastries.
Our room at the Hotel Palacio Del Retiro
As usual, the front desk was extremely helpful in recommending things to do and restaurants to try. We were in an ideal spot in Madrid to explore some of the city, and we took advantage of it. We planned to walk to most of our destinations, but taxis were plentiful and a good option for a longer trip.
My wife was very interested in visiting the Prado Museum (Museo del Prado) in Madrid while we were there. It just so happened that the museum was celebrating its 200th year of operation in 2019, and there were special exhibits and attractions as a result. So, the better part of one day was spent at the Prado. Even an art novice like me found a lot there to like.
The Prado Museum
Just as we saw in Valencia, Lisbon, and Porto there were many sidewalk cafes and coffee shops to help you unwind and people watch. After walking a good deal and spending much time in the Prado, we were anxious to get home. Picking a dinner restaurant for our last night was the only real decision left to make. We set up a cab for the morning and packed as much as we could before enjoying our last night in Madrid. The hotel steered us to some great spots, and our last dinner did not disappoint.
Plaza de la Independencia in Madrid
Lessons Learned
Portugal was a pleasant surprise – To be honest, Portugal had never been on our radar for a trip. We had other more traditional destinations on our list, but having the reunion group push us in that direction was a big incentive. Portugal was wonderful – low-key, friendly people, easy to get around, good dining and drinking, and reasonably priced throughout. For wine lovers it’s quite an education and a great tasting experience. We traveled to Portugal during July, and the weather was perfect then.
Add some extra cushion in your itinerary – I know, I’ve said this before. But we always seem to benefit from the cushion no matter where we travel. Even the generous three-hour connection time in Madrid disappeared on us due to delays, and we were lucky to make our flight. I think the peace of mind you get is well worth the extra time you program into your schedule.
Spend some time in Spain – We had previously visited Marbella, Spain on the Mediterranean coast, and we just loved it. So, getting to see Valencia and Madrid was very appealing to us. We thoroughly enjoyed both areas, and I would gladly go back for more. As with my description of Portugal, Spain has wonderful people and a relaxed lifestyle. Prices are good, and there is a lot to see. We really just scratched the surface.
